To the uninitiated the landscape of the Essex coast,Is just as bland as a piece of toast.There are no mountains, and even the cliffs are few,Only swatchways and mud, but what is a sailor to do? Some say the even bigger shame,Is that Essex victuals are just as lame.Even MG, who so loved this coast,Described a tin of hot Spam as an Essex roast. A few weeks past we cruised